Fresh Cantonese Rice Noodle Rolls Are Flourishing at Restaurants and Street.

[lorettajain]

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<br>The core audience is Cantonese expats, but tourists, non-Cantonese Chinese people, and Westerners have also taken notice of the snack. One bowl of noodle roll takes about three minutes to cook, but on weekends, some shops’ wait times for a bowl can be as long as 40 minutes. I asked Leo about his proudest moment as a business owner, and he shared that his greatest joy comes from creating food that people love.
I asked Leo about his experience transitioning from the food cart to the brick-and-mortar. Leo expressed to me that because his English wasn’t the best, he experienced many challenges. He shared that they heavily relied on the community of Chinatown and word of mouth to regain his regular customers – and gained many new ones along the way. Leo said that it was hard to keep up with the new pace of the restaurant and it took a period of adjustment to gain control of the new flow they had to adapt to.
Their commitment to serving the adored traditional Cantonese combo –fishballs and noodles – spans over 3 decades. You might recognize the delicious aroma of cheung fun or rice noodles and fishballs, from the iconic cart that was once located on the corner of Grand and Bowery …. Now, that well-loved spot has grown into something even bigger—Chang Lai Fishball & Noodles officially opened a storefront back in 2023. On the food cart tour I lead, I often talk about how many street vendors hope to one day transition into a brick-and-mortar location.
As at most cheung fun places in Guangdong, rolls can be customized at all the Chinatown spots. Upon request, the cheung fun chef will add a raw egg into the rice milk before steaming it. At Yi Ji Shi Mo, different stuffings, like char siu, beef, and shrimp, can be mixed in, too. The story of Chang Lai Fishballs Noodles starts with Lai Sheng Zhang, an immigrant from the Guangdong province. After a few years as a taxi driver, he decided to open up a street cart in Chinatown specializing in Hong Kong rice noodles (Cheung Fun) with fishballs.
Chang Lai Fishballs & Noodles, a food cart at Grand and Bowery streets, offers both stone mill rolls and “piggy rice rolls” (zhu chang fen/jyu cheung fun). The jyu chang fen, pre-steamed, no-stuffing rice rolls, look like Korean rice cakes, but they’re often served with soy and peanut sauce. The rolls can be ordered alongside curry fish balls, making for another classic Cantonese snack duo. While the menu had a few types of rice rolls and fish balls, we opted for their famous curry fish balls rice noodles “smothered in everything”. “Everything” being soy sauce, hoisin, sesame, peanut sauce, and sriracha.
Chang Lai Fishballs Noodles has delicious milk tea, juice or bubble tea among its drinks. The pork chop and baked rice were fairly simple, but what made the dish special was the tomato sauce. While I enjoyed it, between you and me, I wouldn’t get it again because I can make tasty baked rice dishes at home. We ordered the pork chop with baked fried rice in tomato sauce ($10.25) and the Golden Lava French Toast, ($8.25). The toast was fluffy on the inside, crispy on the outside, and the golden lava filling was rich, thick and sweet. I’m obsessed with Hong Kong style filled toasts, and this experience reminded me that I need to eat the dish more often.
It’s now sold in New York bakeries, grocery stores, street carts, and most recently, dedicated cheung fun shops that draw lines of locals every morning. This place with takeout dishes is good for those clients who like to have lunch in a hurry. Guests like the homey atmosphere at this spot, they want to come here again and again.
“That’s what I ordered when I was on my way to primary school,” she says. Still, there isn’t one particular rice roll in New York that features more “authentic” Cantonese flavors than the rest. Instead, the eclectic collection all together exudes a genuine sense of Cantoneseness. After all, in Guangdong, cheung fun stuffing can be many things, from pork liver to beef tripe to youtiao, the fried dough. The variety here speaks to the trust that restaurants and carts have in New York’s diners to try unconventional option<br>

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